dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️

That’s the neat part: I don’t.

Not anymore. I scaled back my fast food consumption quite a bit in previous years, but when the prices of everything skyrocketed to absurd levels during COVID I just quit going to fast food places and never looked back. I get Taco Bell or something like, maybe two or three times a year now and that’s usually when I’m on a road trip or something. Otherwise they can get bent as far as I’m concerned.

If I want slop it’s cheaper and honestly also easier to just buy a TV dinner from any of the selection of general goods stores within walking distance of my house and pop it in the microwave. And these days probably faster, too, because I don’t have to deal with the McAttitude or inevitably discover that the fast food place is trying to run with half the staff it’s supposed to have because its franchise owner is a greedy prick, nor have to worry about getting sucked into the thrice-weekly fistfight in the parking lot, nor getting caught in the crossfire because some fuckmuch is salty about not getting enough ketchup packets and decides to shoot up the joint.

Uh.

Does anyone currently know James May’s whereabouts now that Andy Wilman is presumably no longer keeping tabs on him?

I think this one can be summed up as the old, “The nail that sticks up gets pounded down.” I don’t think it’s really any deeper than that.

Behave or exhibit yourself in a way that people don’t get, and the response from some is to just get irrationally angry and/or stupid about it. Logic does not apply.

Malicious actors are getting USB drives to autorun somehow. If they’re not using built in Windows capabilities, they’re engaging in shenanigans emulating HID inputs over USB or something.

All I know from personal experience is that modern Windows will not autorun a CD anymore, even though up until XP it would.

95, and they disabled it circa Vista because it was obviously a stupid idea.

Ironically, this was originally only for drives that reported themselves as optical media (CD/DVD), but now modern versions of Windows actually won’t autoplay an immutable commercially pressed CD, even if it has the correct autoplay.inf file on its root directory structure, but somehow it will autorun things on a flash drive which is a medium explicitly capable of being fucked with by a malicious actor.

Because that makes sense.

If you want a good laugh, or possibly just transform into a pillar of salt, you could stick a temperature logger in your fridge to see if it’s actually holding its setpoint (your big one, that is, not the mini fridge).

I did that in our office fridge a few weeks ago just for a lark. The results were… not good.

If that pattern holds then a modern one should be ~4x more energy efficient…

Also bear in mind that there is only a single evaporator in that thing, so it’s not a case of “just the freezer isn’t working.” The refrigeration system in there has partially failed, wholesale, and you only notice it first in the freezer because that’s the coldest compartment and stuff melting is a very obvious tell. That fridge is probably working its compressor constantly in a vain little mechanical attempt to reach its temperature setpoint, which it will never accomplish because it’s lost compression or has a slow refrigerant leak or whatever. So it’s consuming even more electricity than it otherwise would, and replacing it with just about anything would be a net improvement.

The manufacturer(s) will publish an energy guide label with their estimated kWh/year energy usage for any given model. Using your Kill-a-Watt or whatever energy monitoring device you have, it should be fairly trivial to measure a day’s worth of energy consumption from your old fridge and multiply it by 365 to get a yearly figure.

Then just see if A < B.

I’ll start with among the cheapest and junkiest available, the Avanti RA31B3S (which has a separate freezer compartment). The manufacturer claims it burns 320 kWh/year.

And since bail is generally set at the discretion of a judge (I’m sure some jurisdictions have limitations, and others just “guidelines”), it can be increased based on the perceived heinousness of the crime or in some cases outright denied entirely.

You did, at least eventually. This could be argued to be a very early, not to mention analog, form of enshittification.

Leopards? Eating my face???

I can only conjecture it must have cost a mint.

Crikey. I have to wonder what that ~2TB unit must have cost in 2016.

Interesting that the one has such large capacitors in it. I imagine that is as last-ditch effort to keep the board powered long enough to finish flushing all of its caches in the event of a power failure.

Thus far all of my Logitech devices are in the “just works” category, but admittedly none of them are brand new. The most recent is the M510 mouse I use on my office PC. Maybe their newer stuff is all bullshit now; I wouldn’t be at all surprised to learn if it were.

If so, it makes me more motivated to finally get around to ordering a new microswitch for the left-clicker on my old Mx518 mouse.

I’ve had much the opposite experience, in my case coming from using a variety of Razer peripherals and having them all die early deaths, and then Razer themselves to be completely useless in regards to support even well within their warranty period. I gave up and switched to basically all Logitech stuff, which has been flawless for me for many many years.

If everything from all major brands is going to require Yet Another Fucking Account (thus far Logitech does not appear to, or at least not the stuff from them I have) I will just be forced to switch to buying generic brandless Chinese garbage and deal with replacing it regularly. Generic Chinese crap never has an app or an account requirement.

Case in point, cheap LED Christmas lights are often not rectified at all so they flicker at 50/60 Hz depending on your country’s electrical supply…

There was also the Nokia N900 which ran Maemo, which was much closer to a traditional Linux distribution to the point that it was fairly trivial to compile desktop Linux programs for it. Which could even be done on the phone itself, if you had a lot of time on your hands.

Typically it’s not the emitters – the LED’s themselves – that fail. If driven correctly, those have lifetimes of tens of thousands of hours. That’s what the manufacturer is advertising on the box. Yes, an individual LED when driven correctly will probably last 20,000 hours. (Usually more, depending on how pedantic you want to get. The 20,000 hour figure often quoted is the point where the emitter drops to 80% of its original light output.)

LED “bulbs,” the type that replace filament bulbs in consumer fixtures, typically fail in their driver hardware. LED’s run off of low voltage DC and in the base of all of those LED conversion bulbs is a power conversion assembly that steps down and rectifies 120v/240c AC to whatever DC voltage the LED array in there expects. These are inevitably made out of whatever the cheapest passives and semiconductor components the manufacturer thinks they can get away with. These don’t last 20,000 hours, especially not in where they’re usually installed.

The main killer for all semiconductor electronics, which includes both LED’s themselves and their driver circuitry, is heat. This is often exacerbated by the fact that LED replacement modules are usually stuck in enclosed light fixtures designed for filament bulbs that have insufficient ventilation to get rid of the waste heat from the components in an LED module. The insides of those enclosed ceiling light fixtures, the ubiquitous “boob light,” gets hot, even with only LED modules installed. Filament bulbs don’t care because they don’t have any electronics in them and how they work is literally by getting so hot the glow. But LED modules in that kind of environment will invariably suffer an early failure.

The best way you can get your LED modules to last longer is to install them in a fixture where they’ll have a lot of air circulation available or at the very least which is not fully enclosed.

People are going to see this, so here’s the answer.

Logitech’s web UI is crap. See that tiny, unlabled triangle on the list on the left?

Click it and pick your OS version.

Then you get the download.

Yeah, you’re totally allowed to cuss on the internet.